REEM ACRA

A LITTLE BIT OF "TOO MUCH"

THE COLLECTION

Fittingly, given this progressive approach, the clothes were mostly youthful and fashion-forward. Acra didn't hold back with her signature opulence and flair for all-out glamour, but the slouchy elastic-waist sequined frock, rainbow feather-and-bead vest, and wool jacquard coat with red shantung polka dots could work equally well for both a vibrant socialite and her teenage daughter. The designer veered into over-the-top territory at times—one look featured ombré shantung, tulle, gold sequins, ribbons, and an explosion of feather flowers at the shoulder—but for the most part the digital format appeared to bring new energy to the brand.

INSPIRATION

BARROQUE (XVI CENTURY)

Marchesa

Georgina Chapman

for

MARCHESA

The Spirit of Puccini

THE COLLECTION

There are always moments at this presentation that induce a sharp intake of breath. Today it was the appearance of a silver siren gown. The lace-patterned beading on the bodice turned into allover beading and looked like liquid metal. A Fall collection for any creator of eveningwear is inevitably higher-stakes than Spring, coinciding as it does with awards season—all those stars, or their stylists, looking to snag something directly from the runway. Does Chapman keep that in mind when designing? "Yes, yes," she said. "It would be silly not to." It would be sillier still if we don't see at least a couple of these pieces—perhaps a gorgeous paisley beaded fuchsia suede dress or a white feathered Empire gown—on a talented ingenue in the near future

THE INSPIRATION

MADAME BUTTERFLY

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ANNA SUI

CHINA CHARLESTON

THE COLLECTION

the mood of these clothes was vintage bordering on antique, the overall impression was curiously un-retro. That's because Sui, who once worked as Steven Meisel's stylist, knows how to weigh the whimsy: a flat boot, a big cable-knit cardie, or a fur bolero helped to make her most hippie-princess looks real-world-ready. And, because the backroom boys and girls don't always get their due, it's past time to credit Pat McGrath's makeup, Garren's hair, and Frederic Sanchez's music. At some point in the future, those elements will all be part of the most wonderful museum exhibition on New York's most underrated designer.

By Tim Blanks for VOGUE USA.

INSPIRATION

IMPERIAL CHINA

3.1 Phillip Lim

PHILLIP LIM
Return to Studio 54

THE COLLECTION

That new simplicity dovetailed with part of Lim's inspiration, which set itself during a moment in the seventies when disco dissolved into punk and Halston's influence could still be felt. But the best souvenir from this bit of sartorial time travel was the trousers. The murmur of approval began with a pair of black suede flares in the second look, and slowly grew with the many creased and high-waisted pants that followed. One caveat: Most were cut in a seemingly heavy silk, sometimes with an animal print, that was pleasing to behold but didn't have immediate real-world appeal. (Though we reserve judgment until we've tried them on. We did just call Lim a chic pragmatist.) The best ones came in a blush bouclé and were paired with a languid gold sequin blouse. With an evening option like this, his severely asymmetrical silk dresses—hacked off, according to Lim's backstory, by an erstwhile Studio 54 reveler—seemed like less fun.

INSPIRATION
Disco Punk and Halston Style over the Studio 54 (1970´s)

Vera Wang

VERA WANG

Black and White

The Collection

A pair of her easy paper-bag-waist tuxedo pants, worn with a draped one-shoulder top in white linen voile or an ivory silk faille tucked bustier, would make fabulous alternatives to the little black cocktail dress—though Wang showed quite a few of those, too. Among the best was a simple twisted and draped jersey frock that fell to just above the knee. Others, with their mosaics of metallic sequins and swags of black tulle (accessorized with piles of pearls), erred on the fussy side. "Less is more" is not a concept that feels entirely natural for Wang. Still, she nailed it with a scalloped black organza gown that looked practically weightless as it glided down the runway.

Inspiration
The Dandy in Black and White

Max Azria

Max Azria
Nothing is All

The Collection

The only thing wrong with Lubov and Max Azria doing luxe minimalism for their Max Azria show is that a reviewer must resist the urge to indulge in some sort of Max-goes-minimal wordplay. Must resist. Other than that, today's show was a beauty, which built on and really refined the clean direction the Azrias started heading in last Spring.

By Philip Kuhn for VOGUE USA

Inspiration
Minimalism

Derek Lam
Leather Flush

The Collection

Following Spring's ode to East Coast beach towns, Derek Lam's Fall collection was a celebration of the American West. "Hasn't everybody at one point or another had the fantasy of being a cowboy? A cowgirl?" he asked backstage. Well, as grounded in reality as his chic clothes looked today, even gals who never dreamed of life on the range will find plenty of stuff to like.

By Nichole Phelphs for Vogue USA

INSPIRATION
The West America

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka
A Handfull of Stars

The Collection

Twinkling embellishments and stardust beading were a big part of the Badgley Mischka story. The reason for all the shiny finery, James Mischka revealed a few days before the show, was that he and design partner Mark Badgley (like a clutch of other designers this season) had been stargazing. Literally: They were poring over images captured by the Hubble telescope. "There's a galaxy feeling to our beading," Mischka remarked. Indeed, a short V-neck tank dress covered entirely with densely clustered gemstones had a river of citron running down the front and back like the Milky Way.

Inspiration
The Galaxy

Marc by Marc Jobs

MARC JACOBS

What Reminds of the Empire

THE COLLECTION

Whoever does Marc Jacobs' research for him is a genius, with an ability to nail a mood that is pure gold. The new Marc by Marc Jacobs collection perfectly captured the moment when stylish boys and girls were picking up Iron Curtain army surplus after the Wall came down. The khaki melton coat with the red trim? The black fur hat? The big wool coat, patched and roughly belted as a dress? It was all spookily close to the source, which was kind of in keeping with the theme of Jacobs' signature show on Monday night: There's no place like home. In that case, "home" was a serene, almost dreamlike reminder of timelessness and enduring value. Here, it was a distillation of the thrift-shop spirit that has shaped the Marc by Marc collection from day one. Not just the surplus, but a strapless tartan prom dress (with petticoat) for the girls and washed-out black felt cargo pants with matching jacket for the boys.

By Tim Blancks for Vogue USA

Inspiration:

China afther II Mundial War 1949.

Tao Dictactorial Arriving